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 The following article is the fourth in a series about the Old City of Jerusalem, Israel. 

The Armenian Quarter,  situated in the southwestern area of the Old City, is owned mostly by the Armenian Patriarch. The Patriarch has its own compound, which is closed off to the general public. It does, however, host a seminary, monastery, the Cathedral of Saint James, Saint Toros Church, and the Church of Archangels. There are limited hours to visit the Cathedral of St. James, between 15:00-15:30 for the vespers prayer service.

The Armenian Museum is typically available to visit Monday through Saturday from 10:00-17:00, but is currently undergoing renovation and is consequently closed for the time being. You will, however, find maps of the Armenian Genocide plastered all over the walls of the quarter.

Within the cartographic boundaries of the Armenian Quarter resides the David Citadel Tower. Inside this complex, located on the southern side of Jaffa Gate, is the History of Jerusalem Museum. Walk through history itself as you tour the Citadel’s cellars, rooms, and lush outdoor terraces. Inside many rooms you’ll find exhibits depicting an era through maps, text, and ancient artifacts. There is even a theater where you can view an short animated movie depicting the story of Jerusalem. For more information, visit the Tower of David website at http://www.towerofdavid.org.il/eng/.

If you feel the need to fill your stomach, there are a few restaurants for you to choose from. Check out the Armenian Tavern (menu pictured above) located on the Armenian Patriarch Road for some classic Armenian fare. Try the kubbeh (meat stuffed balls of wheat) or the Armenian pizza for starters. Be aware that they only accept cash here, so come prepared.

There are a couple of hostels that are recommended in this quarter. The Jaffa Gate Hostel, located just inside Jaffa Gate (accessible through a walkway situated across from the David Citadel Tower entrance), is currently undergoing a revamping and is improving its look and comfort factors. Their staff is very friendly and helpful, and the private room rate comes out to around 150 shekels per night, some including a private bathroom and television. Another reasonable deal can be found at the Citadel Hostel, located on St. Marks Road (from Jaffa Gate, enter the shuk and take the first set of stairs to the right, then make a left). Phone numbers: Jaffa Gate Hostel 02-6276402 (from Israel), 011-972-2-6276402 (from USA); Citadel Hostel 02-6285253 (from Israel), 011-972-2-6285253 (from USA).

Images courtesy of bdnegin and the author.

Check out the other quarters of the Old City:

• Christian Quarter
• Jewish Quarter
• Muslim Quarter

The following article is the third in a series about the Old City of Jerusalem, Israel. 

The second to the largest area of the Old City, the Christian Quarter, is filled with great sites. It covers the northwest section of the Old City, including the New Gate to Jaffa Gate. As the name suggests, this quarter features mostly Christian holy places, but is still beautiful to visit for anyone traveling through the area.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (also Church of the Resurrection) is located in the center of the quarter and is open daily to all visitors, typically during daylight hours. According to Christian theologians, this is the site where Jesus was both crucified, buried, and resurrected. Inside the church is a virtual treasure trove of beautiful ancient Christian artifacts, a hall for prayer, and the tomb of Jesus. While technically the Jerusalem headquarters for the Greek Orthodox, the Russian Orthodox and Roman Catholic sects also share a portion in control of the church.

Via Dolorosa, or Walk of Pain/Suffering, is one of the most spiritually moving walks of the Old City. There are frequently groups of pilgrims who will organize the walk with a leader/priest from their church. Along the way are nine Stations of the Cross, each of which is a holy site in its own right. The walk begins in the Muslim Quarter at the Lion’s Gate, and continues until the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Controlled by the Lutherans, the Church of the Redeemer (a two minute walk from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre) stands tall amongst surrounding buildings. For those that are willing to pay a few shekels (approximately 20 shekels), you can hike up the staircase to the top of the bell tower. The walk up is tiring, and even a bit scary, but is worth the beautiful 360 degree views you will catch at the top. If you’re not up for the hike, the exterior of the church offers very interesting architecture, especially on the medieval-styled northern gate.

As part of the grand tradition of the Middle East, the Christian Quarter also features a shuk to meddle in. The main part of the shuk is on the Christian Quarter Road, but does trickle slightly to side roads. You will find many Christian-focused gifts, such as crosses, rosaries, nativity scenes, et cetera. The same rules go for this shuk as the one in the Muslim Quarter, you will need to be savvy and bargain hard to get yourself a good price; don’t settle.

If you get hungry, the best place to go is near the New Gate for falafel or shawerma in pita (the restaurant is on the corner as soon as you enter). There are also a few scattered pizza places and hookah cafes throughout the quarter (be aware that hookah cafes may be men-only).

For lodging, check out the Casa Nova Pilgrim Hospice or the Petra Hostel.

All images provided by the Author and can be viewed on her Flickr account.

Check out the other quarters of the Old City:

• Armenian Quarter
• Jewish Quarter
• Muslim Quarter

The following article is the second in a series about the Old City of Jerusalem, Israel.

A street in the Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter is the second from smallest quarter, located in the southern part of the Old City, Jerusalem. 

It’s cartographic boundaries include the Western Wall (HaKotel in Hebrew), Zion Gate, located on Mount Zion, and the Dung Gate, just outside of the Western Wall Plaza. The Jewish Quarter is the cleanest and safest area with the stone walls built by the Ottomans.

The Western Wall Plaza and Temple Mount

Start your day off early and head to the Temple Mount (Haram al-Sharif or Al Quds in Arabic, Har HaBayit in Hebrew). While it is under control of the Muslim Waqf, the only entrance through which non-Muslims are allowed to enter is just inside the Dung Gate (on the right side of the entrance to HaKotel plaza). The hours vary, but you generally can enter in the morning on every day of the week, aside from Friday (only Muslims are allowed on Fridays). Hours are also subject to change based upon the security situation. The Temple Mount is flourishing with beautiful trees and has great examples of Islamic architecture. If you are Jewish, you may want to take into consideration that Jewish law prohibits Jews from walking on the majority of the Har HaBayit, so consult your rabbi before visiting. The east side of the main plaza area has, unfortunately, a large mound of litter, near the Golden Gate… but offers great views of the Mount of Olives.

If you’re hungry and could use a bite to eat, grab breakfast at Bonker’s Bagels and watch the assortment of folks as you enjoy your bagel. Afterward, just take (literally) a couple steps over to visit the Burnt House. It is the residence of a Jewish family from the time of the Second Temple Period (approximately 70 c.e.) that was discovered during excavations. If you’re intrigued by archaeology and find this taster doesn’t satiate your desire to learn and see more, go check out the Jerusalem Archaeological Park, located outside of the Southern wall of the Temple Mount. There are plenty of excavations that you can climb through, including mikvaot (ritual baths) that were used to purify the worshippers before ascending to the Temple. For more information, visit their website at http://www.archpark.org.il/.

A view of the top of the Jewish Quarter and the rebuilt Hurva Synagogue

Trek back up the stairs to hit the Moriah Bookstore and Giftshop for beautiful Judaica and good-quality souvenirs.  For lunch, you can head over to the main plaza’s mini-market, where they also sell delicious Israeli shwarma in a pita (try it with ’schug’ if you like it spicy). Eat in the square on one of the benches facing the Hurva Synagogue, which is currently being rebuilt.

Shwarma

If you’re about ready to shell out the big bucks, then you’ll want to head over to the Cardo. There you’ll find some of the most beautiful jewellry, artwork, silvercraft, and other handicrafts. These shops only sell high-quality items, so expect to pay a few shekels more than you might for a cheap replica in the shuk.

The Women’s Section of the Western Wall

The place I prefer to visit last, usually at night, is the Western Wall. It is the only remaining, accessible, part of the original Temple Mount, surviving many wars, fires, and regimes. You’ll enter through one of four security points, each have their own x-ray scanner and metal detector, and at least two security guards. People of any faith may enter the Western Wall Plaza, including the area for prayer. No matter what you believe, it is a tranquil place to sit, think, and linger in the feeling of great spirituality.  Write a note and slip it between the crevices of the Wall, don’t worry, only you and God will know what it says. Before entering, it is important to remember that you should be dressed modestly (for women, this means covered knees, shoulders, and cleavage), photography/smoking/cellphone usage is forbidden on the Jewish Sabbath and Holy Days, and generally have respect for the worshipers. If you are Jewish, you may want to consider hanging around for Shabbath. Meet Jeff Seidel (http://www.jeffseidel.com/) outside of the men’s prayer area at the Kotel after sunset on Friday to be setup for dinner with a local family.

Please note before planning a day in the Jewish Quarter that every business and the ATM within it are closed from Friday at sunset until Saturday at sundown. English is as commonly spoken in the Jewish Quarter as Hebrew, plus many people speak Arabic, Spanish, and French. Enjoy your time!

Images courtesy of Ariela Ross and Mark B

Check out the other quarters of the Old City:

• Armenian Quarter
• Christian Quarter
• Muslim Quarter

Jews, Muslims, and Christians alike all stake a claim in this beautiful, walled city as one of their religion’s holiest sites. Is the Old City the center of the world? Perhaps. Is it one of the most amazing places to be on the planet? For sure!

There are four “quarters” of the Old City. Each are free to explore and get lost (and found, spiritually) in. The largest of the four is the Muslim Quarter. It takes up about one-third of the area, in the northeast, and includes the Lion’s Gate to the east, Herod’s Gate to the northeast, and Damascus Gate in the north.  It is abound with energy, vibrancy, and color during the day. The ‘shuk’ (or ’souq’; an open-air market) is full of everything from sandals to Christian trinkets to Islamic prayer rugs, incense, and so much more. 

Everyone is very friendly and hospitable. Don’t be shocked if a shop owner invites you in for a look at his merchandise and a cup of the famous Turkish coffee, on the house. They speak your language, and will try to get the highest price no matter what language you speak (besides, perhaps, Arabic), so don’t be shy to speak your native tongue, and also be aware that they may understand any side comments you make. Drive a hard bargain, even start to walk away if the price isn’t reasonable enough. Their ‘cost’ of merchandise is usually half of what they tell you, so don’t feel bad at all if they give it to you at that price. The first price they tell you is always (no matter what they say) double as much as they are hoping to get. Near the entrance to the Western Wall is a shop owner named Ramadan, he or his son will usually give you some of the best prices. Oh, and ladies, please be sure you are modest in both dress and action – Middle Eastern men are *very* flirtatious.

If you get hungry, there are plenty of places to stop in for a bite. Try Jafar Sweets for traditional Arabic desserts (especially Kadifah, made from sweet cheese and crispy orange noodles on top), Abu Shukri for some of the best hummus out there (be aware, they essentially only offer this, along with various toppings), or a great, unnamed falafel stand at the bottom of the stairs inside Damascus Gate for the most amazing, always fresh, and very cheap, falafel in pita you will ever taste. There are plenty of scattered hookah bars, but most are male-only.

While walking along the way, you will see soldiers and police stationed, usually in pairs. They are there for your protection, and many incidents have proven the need for them. The Border Guard soldiers (wearing the green uniforms) typically do not speak much English, but they can be useful for very basic directions and the time. Once again, I must strongly remind the ladies that Middle Eastern men love to flirt. This particular unit of soldiers is infamous for being womanizers, so do be aware of this. For everyone – please avoid walking unnecessarily through the Muslim Quarter at night. It is dangerous, as theft, assault, rape, and stabbings are unfortunately not uncommon.

The Muslim Quarter is best to visit on Saturday. Friday is a day of prayer in Islam, so it is extremely crowded (imagine trying to walk through people packed together like sardines), and about half the shops are closed. Saturday is the Jewish day of rest, so the majority of Jerusalem (including public transportation) is shut down. Enjoy your time, have fun, and practice your Arabic, too!

Basic Arabic Phrases/Words

Aywah – Yes (pronounced in most common situations as “ah”)
La – No
Ahdesh Hadah? – How much is this?
Bidi Hadah -  I want this
Kif Halak? – How are you?
Ilhamdullilah – Good, Thank God
Insha-allah – Hopefully/God Willing
Numbers - Wahad (1), Tinin (2), Talatah (3), Arba’a (4), Hamsah (5), Sitteh (6), Saba (7), Tamaniye (8), Tisa (9), Asharah (10), Ashreen (20), Talateen (30), Arba’een (40), Hamseen (50), Sitteen (60), Saba’een (70), Tamaneen (80), Tiseen (90), Miya (100)

All images provided by the Author and can be viewed on her Flickr account.

Check out the other quarters of the Old City:

• Armenian Quarter
• Christian Quarter
• Jewish Quarter

Israel is home to a variety of cultures and a surprisingly diverse collection of religious beliefs. The history of the country has many facets and due to its historical record, the political and religious landscape of the region is ever-shifting. Israel offers a wide variety of sites and scenes for potential travelers and here we’ll focus on a few:

Jerusalem

Jerusalem, as we know, is the capital of Israel and one of the world’s oldest cities. Jerusalem is Israel’s largest city, both in population and area, and is in many ways the cradle of Judaism. The historical and religious value of the city are awe-inspiring. The land has been fought over, time and time again, exchanging political and cultural hands repeatedly. According to sources, Jerusalem has been destroyed twice, besieged 23 times, attacked 52 times, and captured and recaptured 44 times. To walk within its walls is to walk amongst history.

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Bethlehem

Located about 10 kilometers south of Jerusalem, Bethlehem is believed to be the birthplace of Jesus and David. David is also said to have been crowned King of Israel here. Bethlehem, much like other parts of Israel, has had several rulers. The city’s primary source of income is tourism, with the height of the season arriving along with Christmas. Pilgrimages to the Church of the Nativity and to Rachel’s Tomb, an important Jewish holy site located near the city’s entrance, are a couple of Bethlehem’s primary attractions.

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Haifa

Haifa is one of Israel’s largest and most progressive cities. It has exciting nightlife, gorgeous beaches and significant historical value. Home to a mix of Jews and Arabs, Haifa also boasts the Bahá’í World Centre, a Bahá’í pilgrimage site located on the slopes of Mount Carmel. This port city was settled as early as the 14th century and has been conquered by multiple groups. These include the Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Ottomans, Egyptians, and the British. Following the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, the city has been governed by the Haifa Municipality.

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Nazareth

According to the New Testament, Nazareth was the childhood home of Jesus. The city is located amongst a range of hills and nestled at their bases. Nazareth is another of Israel’s common Christian pilgrimage sites.

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Masada

Masada, or “fortress,” is the name of an area located in southern Israel. It was once home to fortifications and palaces that overlooked the Dead Sea from the lofty vantage point of a huge plateau. A siege of the fortress by Roman soldiers during the First Jewish-Roman War led to Masada’s inhabitants committing mass-suicide in an effort to avoid capture and torture.

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As reported in the major Hebrew language newspaper Haaretz, a British tourist working in an archaeological dig in Jerusalem on Sunday unearthed a treasure of 264 gold coins from 1,300 years ago.  Israel leads the world with the highest per capita rate of archaeological excavations and expeditions.

The Lands of the Bible have attracted the attention of visitors interested in archaeology for more than two hundred years.  Israel’s archaeological riches from the Neolithic Revolution and the Bronze and Iron Ages to the Classical and Medieval Periods are showcased in Jerusalem’s archaeological sites, the outstanding museums and the major Christian, Jewish, and Islamic holy places. Read the rest of this entry »

Tel Aviv declared #1 must see destination of 2009: This headline from the It List 2009 released this month by Concierge.com.
If anybody’s traveling in 2009- and we know you are, although there have been (un)popular reports saying you are staying home next year- it is a great idea to check out concierge.com before you head out the door.  While there, you will be happy to see Tel Aviv at the top of their list!  After all, these are “the places that will make you feel all right about the world again.”

Tel Aviv, Israel. Just in time for its 100th birthday, this newly hip city has plenty to celebrate, with a spate of new hotels and redevelopment, a happening contemporary art scene, and vibrant nightlife.

Grant Martin of gadling.com says,  “Israel’s second largest city and economic hub sounds glorious.”  A local blogger in the city raves [and took the picture as seen above], “Tel Aviv is magical. Its incredibly alive, full with outrageousness and busy. Its chic, vibrant, colourful, full on and well… I simply adore it.” Read the rest of this entry »

Unlimited sums of local and foreign money may be brought into Israel as cash, travelers’ checks, credit cards or State of Israel bonds*.  Most American tourists who are in travel groups have prepaid their arrangements and have little need to exchange funds.  Dollars are widely accepted in Israel; nevertheless, storeowners and service providers are not required to accept foreign currency and are permitted to give change in shekels even if payment was made in foreign currency.

1 Israeli shekel = $0.25 U.S. dollars

  Money can be exchanged at any of the street exchange bureaux, ATMs or any of Israel’s major banks (i.e.- Hapoalim, Leumi, Discount bank, FIBI and Hamizrahi).   You may change dollars into shekels legally by going to a bank, or by patronizing a money changer located throughout the main shopping areas of the large cities. Another convenient option: you can withdraw up to 1,000 shekel a day from the ATM’s (in Israel they are outside most major bank branches throughout the country) with a credit card or ATM card. It’s a good idea to have some cash on hand before you arrive — we suggest about $100 worth, depending on the cost of transportation and how soon you think you’ll be able to reach an ATM. You can either bring U.S. dollars to use at the airport’s exchange bureau, or change your money before you even leave home.

Change Place provides a variety of financial services all over Israel, including Ben Gurion Airport and in all other border crossings. Services provided by the company include conversion of any foreign currency, ordering of foreign currency online, VAT refunds for tourists, payment of fees for passage of border crossings, and more. Read the rest of this entry »

The beautiful, fertile land of Israel - and the new irrigation technologies– has become noted for the prolific and abundant fresh flower sales.  You could say that business is blooming!

Israel’s flower, plant and propagation-material export brings upward of $200 million into the economy annually. The country is third only to the Netherlands and Kenya.

Israel’s average of 300 sunny days a year and relatively warm winter temperatures, especially in the Negev Desert, are excellent for growing Europe’s summer flowers, when that continent is experiencing cold weather; advantageously, off-season flowers bring higher profits. Read the rest of this entry »

Israel Dairy Delicacies from the land of milk and honey.

“I’m a huge fan of cheese, and when I discovered the amazing cheeses from Israel - I was sold on them!” says Jeffrey Nathan, celebrity cookbook author and television personality, caterer  and restaurateur.

Today people who eat kosher- or want to - follow food trends like everyone else. They want the same culinary experiences that other Americans enjoy. They want access to Mexican, Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern cuisines.

Israel is not new to cheese production, the land of milk and honey has been producing diary products for thousands of years and today is known for its multitude of world class artisanal cheeses. The dairy industry is one of Israel’s agricultural pillars and the country’s farming system of Kibbutz collective farms and Moshav family cooperatives provide Israeli dairies large and small with milk to create these cheeses as well as Israel’s famous yogurts, diary desserts and drinks.

The Kibbutz Yotvata, for example, situated 42 kms. north of the town of Eilat, has one of the largest dairy production branch. The name “Yotvata” is found in the Bible, in Deuteronomy, chapter 10, verse 7, as being the name of one of the way stations used by the children of Israel in their wanderings from Egypt to the land of Canaan.