Posts from — February 2009
The Old City of Jerusalem: Spotlight on the Armenian Quarter
The following article is the fourth in a series about the Old City of Jerusalem, Israel.
The Armenian Quarter, situated in the southwestern area of the Old City, is owned mostly by the Armenian Patriarch. The Patriarch has its own compound, which is closed off to the general public. It does, however, host a seminary, monastery, the Cathedral of Saint James, Saint Toros Church, and the Church of Archangels. There are limited hours to visit the Cathedral of St. James, between 15:00-15:30 for the vespers prayer service.
The Armenian Museum is typically available to visit Monday through Saturday from 10:00-17:00, but is currently undergoing renovation and is consequently closed for the time being. You will, however, find maps of the Armenian Genocide plastered all over the walls of the quarter.
Within the cartographic boundaries of the Armenian Quarter resides the David Citadel Tower. Inside this complex, located on the southern side of Jaffa Gate, is the History of Jerusalem Museum. Walk through history itself as you tour the Citadel’s cellars, rooms, and lush outdoor terraces. Inside many rooms you’ll find exhibits depicting an era through maps, text, and ancient artifacts. There is even a theater where you can view an short animated movie depicting the story of Jerusalem. For more information, visit the Tower of David website at http://www.towerofdavid.org.il/eng/.
If you feel the need to fill your stomach, there are a few restaurants for you to choose from. Check out the Armenian Tavern (menu pictured above) located on the Armenian Patriarch Road for some classic Armenian fare. Try the kubbeh (meat stuffed balls of wheat) or the Armenian pizza for starters. Be aware that they only accept cash here, so come prepared.
There are a couple of hostels that are recommended in this quarter. The Jaffa Gate Hostel, located just inside Jaffa Gate (accessible through a walkway situated across from the David Citadel Tower entrance), is currently undergoing a revamping and is improving its look and comfort factors. Their staff is very friendly and helpful, and the private room rate comes out to around 150 shekels per night, some including a private bathroom and television. Another reasonable deal can be found at the Citadel Hostel, located on St. Marks Road (from Jaffa Gate, enter the shuk and take the first set of stairs to the right, then make a left). Phone numbers: Jaffa Gate Hostel 02-6276402 (from Israel), 011-972-2-6276402 (from USA); Citadel Hostel 02-6285253 (from Israel), 011-972-2-6285253 (from USA).
Images courtesy of bdnegin and the author.
Check out the other quarters of the Old City:
February 27, 2009 3 Comments
The Old City of Jerusalem: Spotlight on the Christian Quarter
The following article is the third in a series about the Old City of Jerusalem, Israel.
The second to the largest area of the Old City, the Christian Quarter, is filled with great sites. It covers the northwest section of the Old City, including the New Gate to Jaffa Gate. As the name suggests, this quarter features mostly Christian holy places, but is still beautiful to visit for anyone traveling through the area.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (also Church of the Resurrection) is located in the center of the quarter and is open daily to all visitors, typically during daylight hours. According to Christian theologians, this is the site where Jesus was both crucified, buried, and resurrected. Inside the church is a virtual treasure trove of beautiful ancient Christian artifacts, a hall for prayer, and the tomb of Jesus. While technically the Jerusalem headquarters for the Greek Orthodox, the Russian Orthodox and Roman Catholic sects also share a portion in control of the church.
Via Dolorosa, or Walk of Pain/Suffering, is one of the most spiritually moving walks of the Old City. There are frequently groups of pilgrims who will organize the walk with a leader/priest from their church. Along the way are nine Stations of the Cross, each of which is a holy site in its own right. The walk begins in the Muslim Quarter at the Lion’s Gate, and continues until the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Controlled by the Lutherans, the Church of the Redeemer (a two minute walk from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre) stands tall amongst surrounding buildings. For those that are willing to pay a few shekels (approximately 20 shekels), you can hike up the staircase to the top of the bell tower. The walk up is tiring, and even a bit scary, but is worth the beautiful 360 degree views you will catch at the top. If you’re not up for the hike, the exterior of the church offers very interesting architecture, especially on the medieval-styled northern gate.
As part of the grand tradition of the Middle East, the Christian Quarter also features a shuk to meddle in. The main part of the shuk is on the Christian Quarter Road, but does trickle slightly to side roads. You will find many Christian-focused gifts, such as crosses, rosaries, nativity scenes, et cetera. The same rules go for this shuk as the one in the Muslim Quarter, you will need to be savvy and bargain hard to get yourself a good price; don’t settle.
If you get hungry, the best place to go is near the New Gate for falafel or shawerma in pita (the restaurant is on the corner as soon as you enter). There are also a few scattered pizza places and hookah cafes throughout the quarter (be aware that hookah cafes may be men-only).
For lodging, check out the Casa Nova Pilgrim Hospice or the Petra Hostel.
All images provided by the Author and can be viewed on her Flickr account.
Check out the other quarters of the Old City:
February 15, 2009 1 Comment
The Old City of Jerusalem: Spotlight on the Jewish Quarter
The following article is the second in a series about the Old City of Jerusalem, Israel.
A street in the Jewish Quarter
The Jewish Quarter is the second from smallest quarter, located in the southern part of the Old City, Jerusalem.
It’s cartographic boundaries include the Western Wall (HaKotel in Hebrew), Zion Gate, located on Mount Zion, and the Dung Gate, just outside of the Western Wall Plaza. The Jewish Quarter is the cleanest and safest area with the stone walls built by the Ottomans.
The Western Wall Plaza and Temple Mount
Start your day off early and head to the Temple Mount (Haram al-Sharif or Al Quds in Arabic, Har HaBayit in Hebrew). While it is under control of the Muslim Waqf, the only entrance through which non-Muslims are allowed to enter is just inside the Dung Gate (on the right side of the entrance to HaKotel plaza). The hours vary, but you generally can enter in the morning on every day of the week, aside from Friday (only Muslims are allowed on Fridays). Hours are also subject to change based upon the security situation. The Temple Mount is flourishing with beautiful trees and has great examples of Islamic architecture. If you are Jewish, you may want to take into consideration that Jewish law prohibits Jews from walking on the majority of the Har HaBayit, so consult your rabbi before visiting. The east side of the main plaza area has, unfortunately, a large mound of litter, near the Golden Gate… but offers great views of the Mount of Olives.
If you’re hungry and could use a bite to eat, grab breakfast at Bonker’s Bagels and watch the assortment of folks as you enjoy your bagel. Afterward, just take (literally) a couple steps over to visit the Burnt House. It is the residence of a Jewish family from the time of the Second Temple Period (approximately 70 c.e.) that was discovered during excavations. If you’re intrigued by archaeology and find this taster doesn’t satiate your desire to learn and see more, go check out the Jerusalem Archaeological Park, located outside of the Southern wall of the Temple Mount. There are plenty of excavations that you can climb through, including mikvaot (ritual baths) that were used to purify the worshippers before ascending to the Temple. For more information, visit their website at http://www.archpark.org.il/.
A view of the top of the Jewish Quarter and the rebuilt Hurva Synagogue
Trek back up the stairs to hit the Moriah Bookstore and Giftshop for beautiful Judaica and good-quality souvenirs. For lunch, you can head over to the main plaza’s mini-market, where they also sell delicious Israeli shwarma in a pita (try it with ’schug’ if you like it spicy). Eat in the square on one of the benches facing the Hurva Synagogue, which is currently being rebuilt.
Shwarma
If you’re about ready to shell out the big bucks, then you’ll want to head over to the Cardo. There you’ll find some of the most beautiful jewellry, artwork, silvercraft, and other handicrafts. These shops only sell high-quality items, so expect to pay a few shekels more than you might for a cheap replica in the shuk.
The Women’s Section of the Western Wall
The place I prefer to visit last, usually at night, is the Western Wall. It is the only remaining, accessible, part of the original Temple Mount, surviving many wars, fires, and regimes. You’ll enter through one of four security points, each have their own x-ray scanner and metal detector, and at least two security guards. People of any faith may enter the Western Wall Plaza, including the area for prayer. No matter what you believe, it is a tranquil place to sit, think, and linger in the feeling of great spirituality. Write a note and slip it between the crevices of the Wall, don’t worry, only you and God will know what it says. Before entering, it is important to remember that you should be dressed modestly (for women, this means covered knees, shoulders, and cleavage), photography/smoking/cellphone usage is forbidden on the Jewish Sabbath and Holy Days, and generally have respect for the worshipers. If you are Jewish, you may want to consider hanging around for Shabbath. Meet Jeff Seidel (http://www.jeffseidel.com/) outside of the men’s prayer area at the Kotel after sunset on Friday to be setup for dinner with a local family.
Please note before planning a day in the Jewish Quarter that every business and the ATM within it are closed from Friday at sunset until Saturday at sundown. English is as commonly spoken in the Jewish Quarter as Hebrew, plus many people speak Arabic, Spanish, and French. Enjoy your time!
Images courtesy of Ariela Ross and Mark B
Check out the other quarters of the Old City:
February 2, 2009 No Comments
